For grazing sheep, you do not have to supply anything. We can bring all our own equipment. We always supply 360 degree fencing of our sheep with electric netting powered by a solar energiser. The netting keeps sheep in and predators out, so it’s important that it’s set up correctly and working properly. We also provide water troughs, water trailers and mobile shelters as required.

Not having to supply anything doesn’t mean we don’t appreciate any extra infrastructure! If you have a water tap, irrigation pond, old shelter, etc. that can be used, we’d love to hear about it!

For grazing cows, we do not supply fencing so your fences need to be in good shape. We can supply water troughs, water trailers, catch corral, etc.

Yes, a site visit is always required prior to us bringing any animals over. That way we get to meet each other and talk through the details before there are animals there. We will talk about your goals, what areas to graze, areas to avoid, any special requests, estimated grazing times, answer any questions, etc. We also look for potential hazards and access issues. This is our opportunity to get to know each other!

We do not charge people to graze our animals on their land. Paid or trade agreements are on a case-by-case basis. Our goal is to improve your soil and keep the grass down (less mowing!) while feeding our animals. We hope it’s a win- win for everyone!

Yes, we do have a minimum of 2 irrigated acres, but we have grazed smaller areas in the past if the grass is good. It is a lot of work moving animals all over town, setting up and pulling down equipment. We’d like to stay at any one property for at least 1-2 weeks to reduce movements and smaller acreages mean shorter stays! Same goes for the grass! We’d like to have enough grass to cover our preferred time period.

FYI, we do not graze sage brush. We only graze non irrigated land when a dryland crop mix has been seeded in and is producing well.

Only if you want it to. If the landowner wants to terminate a crop without using pesticides, we can graze the crop down extremely low on purpose. This increases the chances of seed touching soil, when reseeding with a no till drill.

In most cases however overgrazing is something we avoid. Grazing start and stop times are important in the grass growth life cycle. Grass should be well established and past the rapid growth period when grazing is begun. Grazing should stop at the point that allows the best opportunity for regrowth, as over grazing can slow regrowth. This point varies depending on grass type but for the most common perennial grasses seeded in Central Oregon, we like to leave 3-4 inches.

The answer depends on how big the pasture is, how good the grass is and how long the animals stay. I’ve put 300 sheep on half an acre for a couple of hours before but it’s a lot of work. As we practice Management Intensive Grazing with our sheep herd, we sub divide properties into smaller paddocks with our netting. We’ve found moving the sheep through these paddocks 1-2 times per week gives the best soil improvement and grass regrowth results. As previously stated, we like a 1–2-week minimum stay at any 1 property, so if we can get a minimum of 3-4 moves within the property, everyone’s happy!

MIG refers to several grazing systems wherein animals are allowed to graze only a small portion of the pasture (an individual paddock) while other paddocks are rested and allowed to recover. By rotating the pasture in a MIG system, we can make more efficient use of land than if we continually kept animals in one large pasture (i.e., continuous stocking). These pasture systems and forages are a part of sustainable agricultural systems. The optimum MIG system provides the following major advantages:

• Pasture plants are allowed to adequately recover between grazing.

• Pasture yield is increased and the distribution of the forage is improved.

• Animal waste and, therefore, soil quality and fertility are more uniformly distributed.

If guardian dogs are with the sheep herd, we will be feeding and checking the herd twice each day.

If no Guardian dogs are with the sheep herd, we will be checking on the herd at least once every 3 days, as we move sheep via MIG practices.

Cows we check on less often, depending on their water situation. We will discuss in the site visit.

We do and they are very friendly with people! Our guardian dogs are Chuck (all white), Rosie (black) and Bruce (yellow). They love people and scratches but need to remain behind our provided electric netting at all times. We do not let our dogs roam your property as they need to stay with the sheep.

Guardian dogs ‘guard’ by creating a scent and audible barrier around the herd. They will bark at other dogs they see and when they hear dogs or coyotes howling. We recommend keeping other dogs away from them just to keep the barking to a minimum. If you hear them barking that means they are doing their job.

It depends. If your property is large and/or rural it is preferred to have the dogs with the sheep for protection. If your property is smaller and closer to town, we are often comfortable relying on just the electric netting for protection from predators.

Of course! If you have specific questions about coverage levels, etc. please give me a call.

Call me! One of us (Ethan or Griffin) is always on duty to come sort out issues so please don’t hesitate!

Depending on relative locations and travel time, I ask that you use your best judgement to avoid or minimise damage to livestock and/or property in the meantime.

Yes. Prior to placing animals on your property, we will have a signed agreement in place. I find it’s a good way to communicate expectations, responsibilities and rights before finalizing an agreement. I usually email a first draft agreement after our site visit and provide a map of the leased area. We can discuss and edit the document until both parties are happy to sign. Both parties will retain a signed copy. Should any issues come up, I like try to resolve them through discussion first, relying on the lease agreement only when necessary.

Yes, for all custom farming services, a site visit is required. That way we get to meet you and you us! We will talk about your goals, what services you require, what areas to include, any areas to avoid, etc. We also look for potential hazards and access issues. This is our opportunity to get to know each other!

After a site visit and agreement, I will give you a rough time estimate of when I plan to cut. In normal irrigation years, most hay fields are cut twice, once in late June/early July and again in September. However, we can cut when and as often as you like, the above is just an example. As the desired harvest period approaches, I will triple check the weather forecasts and let you know which day within the coming week I will actually start.

In the days leading up to cutting your hay, I will work with you to ensure the irrigation water is turned off at least two days prior to my arrival. This allows the soil to dry and firm which is important to minimize damage in your field with heavy equipment. Dry fields also allow for more consistent cutting.

Once your field is dry, we’ll come and cut it. We then leave then cut grass to dry out for a few days in the sun. Often, we will ‘Ted’ the hay to help speed up the drying process. Tedding is lifting the hay and turning it over with equipment to ensure airflow all around the hay, helping it dry. When the moisture content is just right (we measure it), we will rake the hay into rows, then come through with our baler. Our baler makes 2 string bales and bale weights vary depending on your grass type. I will let you know how many bales were made.

We do offer bale pickup and stacking as an additional service, just ask as it is not part of our Cut and Bale package.

Once services are complete, I will send you an invoice via email or mail.

Our preferred payment methods are check or cash, however we can take online payments.

All invoices are required to be paid within 7 days of receival.

Yes. Our minimum charge equates to cutting and baling 3ac worth of hay. There are multiple steps, utilizing different pieces of equipment, spread out over multiple days, to create baled hay. We must cover our minimum costs. Also be aware that we charge for travel time. Within 15-20min of our location is free.

I will not cut hay if an inadequate dry weather window is forecast. I like to have 5-7 days of clear skies to be safe. I will also not cut some fields if there is a high chance of damaging my equipment. Fields should be clear from rocks and relatively flat. Our equipment also needs a certain amount of space to get in and around trees. If trees are not limbed adequately, we may leave some grass uncut. I will walk the field with you during our site visit and let you know any concerns then.

We all know the weather can be a little unpredictable in Central Oregon. I’ve had unpredictable weather events from light drizzle all the way to just under an inch of snow in June. Although we want to avoid moisture on cut hay, 9 times out of 10 the hay is just fine after getting a bit wet. We just leave cut hay to dry out a little longer and will Ted the hay to ensure uniform dryness.

If a bale gets wet, leaving it out to dry in the sun helps. Always flip bales over so both the top and bottom sides have equal time face the sun. This ensures the bale is dry on all sides.

Most likely. Our equipment is sized for the average acreage size in the Bend area, usually around the 3-15 acres. We use smaller equipment to ensure we can get into the tight areas often associated with smaller fields. We need at least a 12ft gate width with a straight, level approach for access. I will look for any issues during the initial site visit. We also cut larger fields if you’re interested!

A site visit first and foremost. Hay fields do ‘get tired’ as they age, often due to soil degradation. Adding natural or synthetic soil builders can help. These can range from animal poop and seeding in a diverse range of plant species, to changing soil pH and applications of ‘Prill’ fertilizers. We can help you decide the best course of action specific to your field!

Yes. We are always on the hunt for nearby sources of quality hay. We can buy “standing” hay and cut it ourselves, or buy the hay after it’s been harvested. Please note that we still have a minimum cost associated to cut and bale hay. Any purchases of standing hay must take these costs into account.

On occasion. Each year is different and our animals get first preference. Feel free to call and ask!

One crop type does not fit all. Soil type, Irrigation method (if any), crop purpose, crop goals, crop hardiness, seeding timing, etc. all play into what you should plant in your field. We can discuss all options and make a plan together!

We do! The ideally prepared field is relatively flat, free from rocks and brush, is not super compacted, has a soil pH conducive to crop desires, weeds and old growth have been removed or minimized (burnt, mowed, disked in, rototilled, heavily grazed, etc.), any trees limbed up and an irrigation plan in place. We can help prep any field and if we don’t have the right gear to get your field right, we have the connections to get it done!

Without getting too technical, a no-till seeder can plant seed in tougher conditions, like through plant stubble and compacted soil and also has the benefit of not disturbing the soil. Conventional seeders require a higher level of ground preparation, like heavy disking, to get similar results. By not having to do as much ground disturbance, you save money and hold onto more of your Central Oregon soil!

Chemical use on your property is ultimately up to you. On our home farm we don’t use them outside of spot treatments on occasion. We can talk through the pros and cons of their use and alternatives. I have the equipment to utilize chemicals but tend to use them sparingly.